Is a wood countertop better than a laminate one? We just bought a house, and I’m already dreaming of remodeling the kitchen. I love wood countertops but have heard horror stories of upkeep.I have two goals in mind:1) How hard is to maintain a wood countertop?2) Is it a good or bad thing for the resale value of the house?
Downloadable sheet music: I Love You – Wood
An actual wooden counter top will hold germs and bacteria.This can cause a severe problem, salmonella, and more.I sure wouldn’t recommend it. It would probably cause a color change after bleaching several times.It would have to be hard work.Have you considered granite or marble? Much easier.I beet the stories you have heard are true!!
Wood and water are not friends, so it would be hard to keep up. Also, when the wood gets cuts or knicks, bacteria resides in those places easily. Why not go with a more conventional counter top, and use wood for an island. I do small remodels on houses, and then sell them. It is my opinion that all wood counter tops would be a difficult re sale.
Wood is very hard to maintain especially in the kitchen. Bacteria and mold will thrive in the wood if not adequately prepared, installed and maintained. Wood also dents and scratches very easily. Personally, I would go with granite. More expensive but very easy to maintain and resistant to scratches. As for resale value, most remodeled kitchens that I have seen were done with granite.
WOOD LOOKS GREAT BUT REQUIRES A BIT OF SPECIAL CARE. DO NOT USE AS A CUTTING BOARD. NO FINISH NEEDED, JUST WIPE WITH MINERAL OIL AS NEEDED. I USED STAINLESS STEEL ON THE “L” PORTION WITH THE SINK. IT WORKED WELL. AND LOOKED GREAT. THE SALE TOOK 1 DAY.
i would not use wood they might look good at first be #1they are hard to keep looking nice#2 they are not sanitary that’s why you sohould not put raw meat on it they make a very nice wood grain laminate that would hold up better i still would not cut any thing on it use a plastic cutting board that’s my opinionas far as resale granite or corr-on or laminate
I made my counter top out of maple flooring I tore out of my house its over 100 yrs old very neat wood grains and because of the age there is very little shrinking and expanding. I use mineral oil on it once a month . the same mineral oil you use as a laxative. I tried linseed oil but it made the wood darker . both are recommended for butcher blocks. cut the flooring into 1″ to 1 1/2 strips and glued them together onto a piece of plywood with lots of clamps.
It is absolutely not true that wood counter tops support the growth of bacteria. Woods surfaces actually support the growth of bacteria less than plastics! See johnboos.com/support/documents/science_report1.pdf, and just to show you that it is not propaganda faculty.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/faculty/docliver/Research/cuttingboard.htmWood is a bit more work to maintain, but it is not terrible. A cleaning followed by application of mineral oil is required periodically for oil finished tops. Poly finished tops just need cleaning, no more than you would have with any other top. Wood scratches easier than some surfaces, but it is harder than some others. You can sand anything out of a wood top, so if you do get scratches they are not permanent.Wood tops are available with two different kinds of finish, a polyurethane or lacquer (depending upon manufacturer) or mineral oil. The mineral oil finish is the traditional finish and is acceptable for direct food prep. The poly or lacquer is more durable, but is not suitable for food prep.Resale value will depend to some extent upon location, but it is something that you don’t see in every house you are in, so it will have appeal to at least a certain number of people. If you want a wood top, go for it.
butcher block looks good but it is hard to maintain. it’s porous, might need to seal once a year, possibility of damaging it easily with knives, hot pots and pans, dropping large things on it, etc. oh, and it’s a little expensive. laminate is the cheapest countertop you can buy. but like butcher block it is NOT heat resistant, it will delaminate in time, will scratch and tear. but if well taken care of, laminate can last for years.
Can a wood stove be engineered to radiantly heat floors? I love wood heat and warm feet. Is there any way to rig a wood stove so that it can radiantly heat floors in the winter, safely?
yes it would be possible you would need to run water pipes under the floor use a radiator on the wood stove and a small slow pump
Check out freeheatmachine.com or central boiler. These are perfect for radiant heat.
I had radiant heat for many years. All it is, is tubes running through your concrete with cycol or hot water running through them. I had an 80 gallon hot water heater doing the work, but I can’t see any reason why wood cannot heat the water. You should contact a few contractors to see if they can do it for you. Below are a couple of articles I found that you might find interesting, good luck!
How do you refinish wood? I love wood and have acquired lots of furniture pieces over the years. I have a cabinet I believe it’s walnut, stripped 8 layers of paint from it and would like to lightly stain and protect the wood. What kind of finish can I apply to it?I picked up a cute little side table that would look great with a shiny finish. I’ve sanded it down and plan on putting a light stain on it. I would like a somewhat thick laquer finish on it. Any advice?Where can I pick up tips on finishing different pieces of wood furniture including antiques?Thanks.
Whenever you sand wood,especially if you use an electric sander,you need to go ever it with steel wool and wipe it down,before you stain it or lacquer it. The brand of stain and lacquer does not matter as much as how it is prepared and you must follow the directions to the letter.If the can says to use a brush then that’s the way that you have to do it.This will ensure that whatever you apply to the surface will stay on the wood and it will be the most durable. I like Dutch Boy and the information that you get on the can,is all that you really need to know.It sounds like you are off to a good start already.
i believe you sanded it well. for best result, use polyurethane paint.i would recommend it for a shiny finish. it really preserves your wood.apply stain and polyurethane sealer (not sanding sealer)then polyurethanegood luck
I do refinishing all the time, there is a process to go through for ” Fine” finishes. But first, finishes:Final finishes take on several forms. The most common are ‘ Polyeurathane” this is the exact finish used on hardwood floors. You’ll notice it has that hard plastic-like finish to it. Now the one i like most is ‘Polycrylic” you get the same look and soft to the touch but it don’t have that plastic hard look to it – I like to think of this as a natural look. I also like this since it is a water based product – easy cleanup. If you get into laquers, glazes well what you need to do first is get a sample to test the different finishes and decide what is best for you. I know of some that love Linseed oil, so its a choice thing.To Prepare the surface for finishing takes the following steps.If there is a finish / paint on the surface I like to begin with 80 grit sandpaper to remove this entirely -but I sand by hand(choice thing). Clean off entire surface and use a ” Wood Filler’ to fill in all holes, scratches, and gouges. Allow this to dry entirely.- Even The SurfaceNext I move to 100 Grit sandpaper to even up the surface entirely. Naturally you will only sand ‘with the grain.’Next I move to 150 Grit sandpaper to start to give it a softer feel, but still maintain the even surface and still only sand with the grain.Next I move to 220 Grit sandpaper and want to get a really fine, soft, finish to it. #000 SteelwoolThe final step is to go over the entire surface with the steelwool to knock down any fibers that are sticking up, this really makes a difference that you will notice immediately. Clean the surface very, very well. If there is any dust left on the surface it will show in the final finish so take the time to really clean the surface.Apply the finish Never think heavy, just so you know. It is so much better to put four thin coats on than it is to apply two thick coats. Also do not rush it – – allow time to totally dry. I barely have enough on the tip of my brush to make it wet. this is how thin a coat you are looking at. Once this first coat dries go over it very lightly with 220 sandpaper and the steelwool, but do not over do it, and only with the grain.Clean off the surface once again. Apply another coat. I most often use the sanding between coats #1 and #2 of the final finish, but do not sand any further on the final finish for future coats. I usually apply three coats, sometimes a forth. If using Polyeurathane allow 24 hours solid – for drying time between coats.If you are staining ( I did not include that here). I apply my stain after stripping the pre-existing finish off, if need more then i reapply. I use the steelwool between coats of stain before moving on to the sanding stage. Remember :strip paint / finishuse fillerstain wood ( if desired)sandfinishOnce you are done with staining knock down raised fibers with steelwool, then begin with 100 grit paper to even entire surface, wood filler and all (remember to use filler before staining so it will be stained also.80 Grit to strip100 Grit to even surface150 Grit to soften220 Grit to finish sanding#0000 steelwool to knock down raised fibers . do not go excessive with this though, just go over with the grain in one direction about two times. Last, like I said finish the surface with the finish of your choice so do test different products before you decide if you are not truly familiar with each finish.
First of all, you shouldn’t sand anything unless its absolutely necessary. Strip your furniture with a chemical stripper (I use Superstrip; works quickly; low odor) and clean up with 0000 steel wool and acetone.If you want a natural finish, Minwax sells a colorless stain called Natural that just brings out the best qualities in the wood without adding any color.They sell a finish especially made for table tops that strong and thick, or several coats of polyurethane should do the trick.
Firstly if you have used a paint stripper make sure you have neutralized it with either water or spirit depending on what stripper you used, then let it dry fully before you start the process of polishing before you start with any sanding look at the veneer, is it in good condition ? start sanding using no less than 120 grit and work up 180 then 240 grit, making sure you wipe down and inspect the veneer, if you do rub thru you will need to touch the veneer in using earth colours, not recommended if you are not trained as it is a highly skilled procedure, if veneer is rubbed thru try to pen it in from any DIY store, when applying the lacquer from the tin using a brush, polyurethane is easiest for you CARE POINT : remember to start with thinner coats and be patient and build up the coats of lacquer when each coat is dry, CARE POINT: the lacquer must be dry, do not rush, use 600 grit lightly sand and dust off prior to next coat being applied.To finish I would like to add an old french polishing saying is concentrate on the edges and let the middle look after its self. hope this helps.